As they say it, How the West was Once
As they say it, How the West was Once
Some shots of Horseshoe Canyon outside of Drumheller, Alberta.
While in Banff National Park, Wendy and I took the boys up to Johnston Canyon which was insanely busy. The parking lot was packed and by the time we left, people were parking over a kilometre in both ways down the Bow Valley Parkway. We had plans to take the boys to the upper waterfalls.
So as the sign says, it is a 1 km hike to the first falls. Yet when I started the Map My Hike app on my iPhone, it said that it was 4k with a return hike.
I think I have met these three people before.
They enjoyed the walk. They weren’t tired but the progress was at a standstill because there was a group taking selfie’s up ahead.
This is my favorite shot from the hike.
A Parks Canada employee has what looks to be a long and wet day ahead of him.
This is the legendary lower falls of Johnston Canyon. We had planned to go to the upper falls but as the photos show, the crowds were brutal and the antibiotics I had to deal with the infection in my ankle hadn’t beaten the infection back very far. Combined it meant that it would be a long hike and since we are coming back next summer to hike to the inkpots, it wasn’t a big deal to call it a day and dodge the selfie sticks back to the car.
I think we can all agree that I nailed this picture of a chipmunk.
Did I mention that the trail was packed. This is the main reason why we didn’t go to the second falls. So many people (and my ankle was really hurting me). Also, most of the people we passed on the trail were looking at their phones. Apparently world class scenery and nature doesn’t compete well with Angry Birds.
If you want to see more photos from Johnston Canyon, check out the full set on Flickr.
Sawback is a small picnic area on the Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Johnston Canyon. It used to be small and has gotten smaller since Parks Canada has moved the tables near to the roadside turn off and allowed the vegetation to take over old picnic areas.
Growing up, it was my favorite place in the world. We used to take a yearly trip from Calgary (and later Saskatoon) to Johnston Canyon and then picnic at Sawback. I was looking forward to taking the boys there and was quite disappointed when all there was left was some picnic tables near the parking lot.
It wasn’t the picnic areas that make it so great, it was the babbling brook of glacier runoff that make it so much fun to explore as a kid. I knew that didn’t go anywhere so I followed an overgrown trail into the bush and 50 feet into it I found the brook.
Mark and Oliver did exactly what I did year ago and this jump across it and get all wet.
This shot was right after I had scolded the boys about making faces every time I tried to take their photo.
So while the picnic tables placement kind of sucks, we will return in 2016 with a proper picnic blanket and food.
I told Mark that there is a sacred Cooper tradition of dunking one’s head into the glacier water that ran out of the Sawback mountain range. He put his hands in, screamed from the cold…
And dunked his head into it.
After he got out and was struggling with hypothermia did I tell him that he was the first of the Cooper’s to do such a thing. Yes, I am a horrible father.
All of the snapshots I took at Sawback can be found in their album on Flickr.
After two days of being up at 4:45 a.m., I feel like I am slacking and sleeping in today. It’s almost 7 a.m.
Today we are heading to Heritage Park. I haven’t been there since I was in Grade 4. Much as stayed the same but a lot has changed. That was so long ago that the school I attended for Grade 4 has closed.
Before we go to Heritage Park, I need to take Mark to Chinook Centre so we can hit up the Apple Store and he can get a new iPod Nano. His died and then I leant him my old iPod Touch which he then dropped. So here we go again. I wonder if he can get an Otter Box for it.
Oliver doesn’t know there is a Lego store in that mall but I can’t see us walking by it and not going in.
After that it is to the park where we will wander around aimlessly and eat homemade food, ride a steam engine, take a cruise on a paddle wheeler, and see how Calgary was once.
I am waiting for the crew to get ready before we head downstairs to grab breakfast and then hit the road to Banff National Park today. We are taking the old highway through Cochrane along a winding road to Canmore. From there we will make a quick detour into Banff for some fresh bread and food before heading to Johnston Canyon where will hike the trail to the second large waterfall. It isn’t so much of a hike then a stroll. It’s also a great place to people watch as there are tourists from all over the globe there and they are fascinated by a lot of things (like squirrels) that we find mundane.
From there we are heading to a picnic area called Sawback where we will have a quick picnic lunch, then proceed up the Bow Valley Parkway until we get to Lake Louise. Along the way we are checking out a campground that we plan to stay at next year. It looks good online but it’s always nice to see it first hand.
After we explore the Chateau Lake Louise, we are heading back to Banff where the Banff Gondola and Cave and Basin National Historic site wait for us. After dinner the plan is to see the Bow Falls chill out (or warm up) in the Upper Banff Hot Springs before heading back to Calgary.
The Cave and Basin National Historic Site is one of my favourite spots on earth. I loved going there as a kid and I can’t wait until I can show Wendy, Mark, and Oliver the site. As for the Chateau Lake Louise, it was there that I proposed to Wendy so it will be fun heading back there.
After watching the carnage from the PC Party crashing and burning last night, everyone in Saskatchewan seemed to have opinions on what the Alberta election meant for Saskatchewan.
For those on the right, they predicted a wave of people from Alberta moving from the business hating Alberta to the business friendly Saskatchewan. They seem to expect that when Notley does the unthinkable and raise oil royalties, Alberta companies will flee for Saskatchewan (despite the fact that Peter Lougheed did the exact same thing decades ago. They ignore the fact that the oil is in Alberta and therefore so are the jobs. Also as Ontario proved during the Rae years, business will just stay put and vote in a new government before they move to another province. Roots are important to people, they just don’t get up and leave. So let’s cool down and ignore those idiots who have actually prediction an influx of a million people to Saskatchewan over the next couple of years and relax. No one chooses a province based on partisan politics. It is based on jobs and work.
Those on the left see this as another evidence of an orange wave. I don’t think it was a move to the NDP as much as it was a total rejection of the PC Party of Alberta. There will be some vote analysis done but I would suspect Alberta was a really frustrated electorate. If Notley governs well, then great but if she doesn’t, then she will be done. Also keep in mind that Alberta is a very progressive big government province. It is just paid for by oil royalties. It has lead the way in some of the most innovative housing, homeless, poverty reduction and education strategies in North America and do you know what, no one has cared. In fact the Wildrose Party has pushed for more of those kind of programs, especially with seniors care.
I was musing online the other night that if I was in Alberta, I may vote for the Wildrose Party because even I don’t think Alberta’s big government social contract works in the long run. They may be social conservatives in Alberta but they love to spend money.
For all of the talk of the Klein cuts, let’s put that in context, the neo-Conservative NDP under Roy Romanow made even deeper cuts to fight our deficit. Alberta may be the biggest spending government not lead by Bob Rae in history.
The big lesson from last night is that elections matter and polls this early out don’t. That doesn’t mean that Brad Wall will lose and Cam Broten (or whoever the Liberal leader is will win) but it does mean that we have no idea what will happen a year out. What looked like a political masterstroke to the chattering class five months ago didn’t survive last night. Now it is the PC Party of Alberta who could be the weaker party in a merger with the Wildrose Party and the Liberal Party may not exist by next election in Alberta.
I heard a bunch of ridiculous talk that Brad Wall is still unbeatable but at different points so was Jim Prentice or Paul Martin. I remember vote predictions saying that Martin would win over 200 seats and could challenge Brian Mulroney for the largest majority ever. How did that turn out? Back in 1994, the Liberals lead by Linda Haverstock were well ahead in the polls in Saskatchewan.
In Alberta, Notley was at 10% not that long ago. There was a feeling that the NDP would be reduced in seat count and only hold their base in Edmonton.
Last weekend I was out with some politicos. We made some arguments that Brad Wall could win some more seats from the NDP or just as likely the NDP could gain a couple of seats in Saskatoon, Regina, and Prince Albert and end up with like 17 – 19 seats. That is a fearless prediction folks, Brad Wall and the Saskatchewan Party will either win some more seats or lose some more seats in the next election. Take that prediction to the bank! (of course now that I have said that, things will remain the exact same)
In the end, the average voter doesn’t read this blog, doesn’t follow you and I on Twitter, doesn’t read Murray Mandryk or Andrew Coyne and is focused on getting by in their life and job. They have things like hockey games to get their kids to and they worry about the noise their car is making far more than whatever stunt has just been played in the legislature. Politicos may live and die on what is happening (and for that we have Andrew Coyne, Kady O’Malley, and Murray Mandryk) but the rest of the world doesn’t.
Before you scoff at me, in the last city election there were candidates out every night door knocking from now until the election. All of them, winner or loser told me at one point in that cycle that it didn’t really make any difference this far out from the election, people weren’t engaged.
They pay attention when the writ is dropped and the lawn signs come up. Right now the vast majority of people are going, “What happened in Alberta and how did the NDP win there? I thought that Prentice guy seemed all right.” That is the end of it. I actually read one detailed vote analysis in the United States that showed a surprising amount of people (enough to turn electoral votes) voted on how much rain they got that year and the year before. If you are a politician and you just read that last part, you need a hug right now.
So the lessons to take from the Alberta vote. Elections matter. You never know what can happen and probably never say, “look in the mirror” to someone that you need their vote in a couple of weeks. Other than that, there isn’t a lot to take away from it.
The Conference Board of Canada predicts this drop will cause Alberta to slip into a recession by the end of the year. Jeff Rubin, the author of “The End of Growth” and former chief economist of CIBC World Markets believes the dip in the sector could affect Saskatchewan as well, though not as seriously.
“I don’t expect Saskatchewan or Newfoundland to be as adversely affected as Alberta,” Rubin said.
“But it’s going to impact the economy, it’s going to impact tax revenues. Governments are going to be challenged in the sense that if they don’t challenge spending, they’ll see their deficits go off side.”
It could also affect property prices.
The Conference Board of Canada predicts that Alberta will slip into a recession before the end of the year. Rubin echoes that warning. He said Alberta could experience its worst recession since the late 1980s.
At the end of the day, Saskatchewan will be okay because we have what the world needs. Â It may not be as great as it was in 2009 but we will be okay. Â That being said, we are so reliant on commodity prices that these kind of dips are going to impact us forever with no way out. Â In that way the new Saskatchewan under Brad Wall isnâ€™t a lot different than the old Saskatchewan under Grant Devine or Roy Romanow. Â Like the rest of the world, the global economy will always have a big impact on us for good or for bad.
Cam Broten has said before that he wants more eggs in more baskets. Â I think we all do in Saskatchewan but man is it hard to do. Â I posted before about Albertaâ€™s struggles in diversifying their economy and the same thing has happened here. Â I agree with diversification but we are a province of a million people and there are going to be times that the world economy conspires against us and makes it really hard. Â This is one of those times.
As for policy, the Alberta government tried to diversify the Alberta economy in a deliberate fashion back in the 1980s and early 1990s.
Starting under then Premier Peter Lougheed and also under his successor, Don Getty, the provincial government provided loans, loan guarantees and equity stakes to companies in the non-energy sector.
In one example, the provincial government backed â€œmade in Albertaâ€ banks, trust companies and investment firms. After the early 1980s recession and then a mid-decade collapse in oil prices (to $10.25 a barrel in April 1986, down from $26 in December 1985), Albertaâ€™s real estate values also plummeted. That took down many of those same provincially guaranteed financial institutions, themselves heavily invested in real estate.
The price tag to the provincial government for that diversification effort was $1.8 billion, for everything from failed loan guarantees to partially covered consumer and investor deposits.
In another diversification attempt, the province also loaned, guaranteed and took equity partnerships in everything from a forestry company to a meat packing plant, a provincial bitumen upgrader, a waste treatment plant and a high-tech company. By the early 1990s, defaults and foregone capital investments from all of the above cost the province $2.2 billion â€” in addition to the $1.8-billion financial sector collapse.
These efforts didnâ€™t help Albertans adjust to a new reality or diversify the economy. It was simply activist industrial policy, where governments pick winners and losers. The latter cropped up more regularly than the former.
â€œAs of this moment, Alberta is under new management,â€ Prentice told party members and reporters who gathered at Government House for the ceremony.
Iâ€™d even put â€œunder new managementâ€ on signs entering into Alberta.
Here are some other new cabinet ministers
â€œBuilding a new government means bringing in new blood,â€ Prentice said. â€œBoth are strong and experienced leaders with a record of accomplishment. Across our province, they are both held in high regard. They will begin work immediately in their new portfolios.â€
Prentice said Mandel has a strong record of public service as the former mayor of Edmonton and is ready to tackle the issues facing Albertaâ€™s health-care system. Dirks is a former school board trustee and has served as chair of the troubled Calgary Board of Education.
â€œBoth of these ministers are people of achievement,â€ Prentice said. He brushed off concerns that appointing unelected cabinet ministers would cause tension in his caucus. â€œThey are exactly the kind of sharp and disciplined minds we want working on behalf of Albertans.â€
Prentice said he will prorogue the legislature ahead of the byelections, but insists it will be brought back in time to preserve the same number of sitting days as originally planned.
I think if you are in the Progressive Conservative caucus and you arenâ€™t in caucus, you are probably muttering under your breath to see outsiders named to the cabinet table but at the same time, you also have toÂ realize that you really need to change the reputation of your brand or you will find yourself either in very crowded opposition offices or trying to adjust to like back in the private sector.
Jim Prentice may be an upgrade to the debacle that Alison Redford made of the Progressive Conservative Party butÂ there needs to more than a new leader elected.Â He needs toÂ put a new look and feel onÂ thatÂ government.
Atlas Coal Mine is a National Historic Site near East Coulee, Alberta and one of Alberta’s hidden tourism secrets.
Wendy, Mark, Oliver, and I took a 2014 Ford Escape for a week long review and this was one of our destinations. After driving to Drumheller, grabbing a quick lunch and then heading out to the Atlas Coal Mine, we explored the mine, a wooden (and condemned) truss rail bridge that crossed the Red Deer River. On our way back to Drumheller, we stopped in Rosedale and explore the Star Mine Suspension Bridge.
The trip was worth it. If you are in or passing through Drumheller, you need to take a couple of hours and check it out yourself. They are located 20 minutes southeast of Drumheller, along Highway 10 which is a marvelous drive all by itself. Make sure you take some time to check out the Hoodoos, the Star Mine Suspension Bridge and grab an ice cream or a cool drink along many of the roadside diners.
The wooden C.P.R. ”Howe Truss” bridge over the Red Deer River at East Coulee was built in 1936 and destroyed by heavy flooding and ice flows in April 1948. It was rebuilt soon thereafter. It was already an old-fashioned design when it was built, as wooden Howe Truss bridges were primarily used in the 19th century.
By 2014 it had several rotten beams and locals had placed down timber and plywood to help one get across. If that wasn’t scary enough, there are rattlesnakes that are living in the soft timber and dirt on the bridge.
The Star Mine Suspension Bridge is a 117 metre long pedestrian suspension bridge which crosses the Red Deer River in Rosedale, just outside of Drumheller, Alberta.
Constructed in 1931, the bridge was built for the coal workers of Star Mine. Although once used by miners, the bridge is now a favorite among locals for fishing and to access great Badlands terrain.
â€œA lot of oil patch people will call Cold Lake â€˜little Fort McMurray,â€™â€ said the townâ€™s mayor, Craig Copeland.
â€œRent in Cold Lake has gone up from five years ago. You used to be able to get a two-bedroom apartment around $1,000 to $1,200 a month and now, because of the latest boom in the oil patch, in the last year and a half or so â€¦ rent has really shot up. Now two-bedroom apartments, good ones, are going for between $1,800 to $2,200.â€
About a decade ago, the military stopped subsidizing its on-base housing. Instead, they began to charge the local market rate for rents. In order to maintain a â€œnationally consistent process,â€ the military calculates the rents in Ottawa using Canadian Mortgage Housing Corporation data.
That process isnâ€™t forgiving to soldiers who live in remote towns struck by oil wealth.
â€œA normal person would look at this story, see a house built in the â€˜50s and ask â€˜Why in the world are you charging market rate rents for these people? They work for you? Why do we need to gouge them on the rent?â€™â€ said the mayor.
Fearing backlash, few soldiers were willing to speak candidly about the situation. Christine, a soldierâ€™s wife with three young children, said even spouses are too concerned to complain publicly.
â€œWe get crap living conditions,â€ she said. â€œEvery year my husband gets a raise and our rent goes up. It doesnâ€™t matter.â€
After almost two years on the base, she said her husbandâ€™s paycheque of about $58,000 is not covering basic expenses.
â€œOur paycheques do not pay our day-to-day living. We were very lucky in the sense that when we came here, we had money saved up, but thatâ€™s all dwindled and weâ€™ve been pulling out of our house-savings fund,â€ she said.
â€œThere are no extra-curricular activities for the kids, we didnâ€™t have birthday parties for the kids this year, we canâ€™t afford it. Our quality of life is shot,â€ she said.
The mayor estimates 30% of the employees at CFB Cold Lake â€” many of them young soldiers with young families â€” have taken second jobs, like delivering pizzas.
A July report on economic conditions at the base from the Canadian Forces Ombudsman found 35% of one unit had taken on second jobs.
â€œIt was to make ends meet,â€ said Alain Gauthier, the director-general of operations at the Ombudsmanâ€™s office.
In 2012, the ombudsman held four town hall meetings. He heard from military families who couldnâ€™t pay Internet or phone bills, were dipping into their RRSPs and selling their belongings to cover the skyrocketing costs of rent and goods and services.
The report found that the average rent for a three-bedroom home on the base, $1,032, was about double the cost of identical accommodations in Quebec and Nova Scotia.
To add insult to injury, of the 854 homes on the base, almost 97% of them were listed in either poor or fair condition. The report noted that most of the homes have asbestos in the insulation, and many have problems with the electrical outlets and water lines.
So let me get this straight. Â Soldiers in the Canadian Army and Royal Canadian Air Force can be ordered to give up their lives defending our way of life and for the privilege of doing that, they have to live in substandard housing AND take on part time jobs for the right to do so?
The end result?
Unsurprisingly, Cold Lake is registering high release rates as highly skilled soldiers find better-paying work in the labour-starved oil patch right next door.
According to the ombudsman, the release rate in Cold Lake is double the national average. Highly skilled military personnel are leaving their jobs at an alarming rate.
Christine said she had had that very conversation with her husband this week. If it means another three to four years of living in Cold Lake, she said, her family will leave the military.
â€œWe canâ€™t physically survive another three to four years here. Weâ€™re getting closer to debt every month and we donâ€™t have snowmobiles or second vehicles. We donâ€™t have anything,â€ she said.
I am pretty sure this isnâ€™t just a Canadian problem. Â Former General Norman Swatzkoff walked about U.S. soldiers in Europe having to use food banks to feed their families (especially when their wives could not work off the base) and substandard military housing has been a problem for years for most armed forces. Â Yet it is disappointing that when you see the money that goes into weapons programs that we canâ€™t figure out how to feed our troops and fairly compensate them based on their posting. Â On top of that, Canadian soldiers can be punished for having too much debt or declaring bankruptcy. Â Putting them into that situation where debt and having to live off of saving is unacceptable.
For the record, I also agree with those voices in the story that say that the soldier should be disciplined for using his helmet and mention himself being in the service while busking. Â Mentioning his military service and using military equipment showed very poor judgement.
Over the last few years, the government of Canada â€” led by Stephen Harper â€” has made it harder and harder for publicly financed scientists to communicate with the public and with other scientists.
It began badly enough in 2008 when scientists working for Environment Canada, the federal agency, were told to refer all queries to departmental communications officers. Now the government is doing all it can to monitor and restrict the flow of scientific information, especially concerning research into climate change, fisheries and anything to do with the Alberta tar sands â€” source of the diluted bitumen that would flow through the controversial Keystone XL pipeline. Journalists find themselves unable to reach government scientists; the scientists themselves have organized public protests.
There was trouble of this kind here in the George W. Bush years, when scientists were asked to toe the party line on climate policy and endangered species. But nothing came close to what is being done in Canada.
Science is the gathering of hypotheses and the endless testing of them. It involves checking and double-checking, self-criticism and a willingness to overturn even fundamental assumptions if they prove to be wrong. But none of this can happen without open communication among scientists. This is more than an attack on academic freedom. It is an attempt to guarantee public ignorance.
It is also designed to make sure that nothing gets in the way of the northern resource rush â€” the feverish effort to mine the earth and the ocean with little regard for environmental consequences. The Harper policy seems designed to make sure that the tar sands project proceeds quietly, with no surprises, no bad news, no alarms from government scientists. To all the other kinds of pollution the tar sands will yield, we must now add another: the degradation of vital streams of research and information.